Sunday, April 5, 2015

How to Cover Dark Circles / Using a Corrector 101

A corrector is the best item to use to cover dark circles! If you use a concealer it will help cover but a corrector will cancel out the discoloration. Then you can apply a concealer/foundation over it and it will actually cover the darkness. There are 3 different colors one can use depending on the discoloration. 

Application is very important when using correctors. If you have too many layers you can experience major creasing. The first thing to remember is that you apply the corrector first (regardless if you use concealer or foundation under your eyes). When you apply the corrector less is more. The corrector is meant to cancel the the discoloration not cover it. Just like concealer it’s best to use your finger and pat in the product. Your finger will warm the product for a better application and pick up excess product. Push the product inwards and outwards for minimal creasing. 
After you apply the corrector you can use concealer, foundation, or both to cover the corrector. If you don’t cover the corrector you will be able to see the color. Lastly set the product with a finely milled powder!
If you like to apply foundation first go ahead and apply it but leave the under eye area empty. Apply the corrector then apply the foundation over top. Concealer if you want or leave it as it is. The same applies for if you prefer only using concealer under the eyes. 

Extra information: A highlighting concealer doesn’t cover circles when used alone. If feel like thats a common misconception. A foundation/concealer 1-3 shades lighter that your skin will actually accentuate the dark circles/discoloration. The reason why products like MAC Prep+Prime pens and YSL Touche Elcat are popular is because they have a correcting tone. Have you ever noticed the MAC pens come in salmon, yellow, and orange? The YSL pens are more fleshy but have a salmon, yellow, and orange base (specific shades have different corrector).

You want a salmon concealer if the discoloration is blue/purple.

  • Bobbi Brown Corrector (comes in bisque and peach ranges)
  • Eve Pearl Corrector
  • Tarte colored clay CC undereye corrector
  • Benefit Erase Paste
  • MAC Studio Finish Corrector in Light Peach, Burnt Coral (for blush palettes)
  • MAC Studio Conceal and Correct Duo (two lighter shades)
  • MAC Studio Conceal and Correct Palette (light, medium, medium deep)
  • It Cosemtics Bye Bye Undereye Corrector
  • Becca Under Eye Brightening Corrector
  • Face Atelier Camouflage Duet 

You want a orange concealer for extreme blue (also aimed for people with a darker complexion).

  • MAC Studio Finish Corrector in Pure Orange, Burnt Coral (for blush palettes)
  • MAC Studio Conceal and Correct Duo (two deeper shades)
  • NYX Concealer in a Jar in Orange (NYX website only)
  • MAC Studio Conceal and Correct Palette (medium deep, dark)

You want a yellow concealer for extreme purple.

  • NYX Wand Concealer in Yellow
  • NYX Concealer in a Jar in Yellow
  • MAC Studio Finish Corrector in Ochre (for blush palettes, the shade is aimed for deeper complexions)
  • MAC Studio Conceal and Correct Duo (all)
  • MAC Studio Conceal and Correct Palette (all)
  • Maybelline Corrector Concealer

Palettes with a multitude of shades:

  • Bobbi Brown BBU Palette (contains all shades of correctors and stick foundation)
  • MAC (ones listed above)
  • Viseart Corrector, Contour, Camouflage HD Palette (2 shades)
  • MUFE No. 5 - professional corrective shades
  • Maqpro Petite Fard Creme Palette Series (quite a few with different shades)
  • Graftobian Hi-Def Glamour Creme Corrector Palette / Corrector & Neutralizer Wheel (both sold individually)
  • Ben Nye MediaPRO HD Concealer and Adjuster Palette (also sold individually)
  • RCMA Foundation/Concealer Palette (2 shades)
  • Inglot (customize)
  • Cinema Secrets Ultimate Corrector 5-IN-1 PRO Palette (also individually)

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