Wednesday, April 15, 2015

At-Home Skin Care Basics 101


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All skin types should wash 2x a day (day and night). Now here are the other steps for your skin type.


Steps:

  • Cleanse Face
  • Exfoliate (amounts listed below)
  • Toner / Astringent / Freshener
  • Treatment ex: acne treatments (night only)
  • Serum
  • Eye Cream
  • Moisturizer / Night Cream
  • Sunscreen (if day time)

Oily

  • Cleanse: Use a gel/frothy cleanser.
  • Exfoliate: 3x a week.
  • Toner: Astringent based toners (contain alcohol)
  • Moisturize: Use a thin hydrator day and night. If you want a night cream use a ‘normal’ lightweight moisturizer. 
  • Mask: 1-2x a week. Clay based ones will help draw out impurities. If you have dehydrated skin a hydrating one 1x every other week (depending on severe-ness) 
  • Extra: Acne Treatments, apply these at night. The reason you apply these at night it because acids can cause hyper-pigmentation and other skin issues.

Dry

  • Cleanse: Use a lotion, cream, milky, emollient, etc cleanser.
  • Exfoliate: 1x a week.
  • Toner: Freshener (no alcohol and calming)
  • Moisturize: Use a moisturizer and a night cream. Dry skin needs all the oil and hydration it can get so don’t be afraid to use a thick night cream.
  • Mask: 1-2x a week. Hydrating/Cream masks can help add moisture and hydrate. Use clay based ones 1x every other week to avoid drying out your skin.
  • Extra: Sleeping masks can help for people with very dry skin. Facial oils can help dry skin because dry skin lacks oil. Products with Glycolic acid can help help hydrate while exfoliating in a less abrasive way. (Use at night, not in the sun.)

Combo

  • Cleanse: Use a cleanser for your main concern (dry patches or oil).
  • Exfoliate: 2x a week.
  • Toner: Toner (low amount or no alcohol depending on the brand)
  • Moisturize: Use a lightweight moisturizer in the day and a thick night cream at night. 
  • Mask: See Dry/Oily skin. Combo skin you have to find the right balance for your combo concerns.

Mature

  • Cleanse: Use a lotion, cream, milky, emollient, etc cleanser.
  • Exfoliate: 3x a week.
  • Toner: Toner (low amount or no alcohol depending on the brand) / Freshener
  • Moisturize: Depending on how dry you skin feels, use what feels appropriate. 
  • Mask: Use a mask as needed, clay masks 1-2x a week can help with exfoliating and hydrating/moisturizing masks 1-2x a week can help with drier skin. Mature skin can benefit from ‘anti-aging’ masks that help plump the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines temporarily. 
  • Extra: Retinol. As we age our skin slows down. Retinol can really help cell turnover and with anti-aging. If you see a Dermatologist get a prescription. The Doctor will tell you all about the proper application with your skin care routine. (Only at night) 

Sensitive

  • Cleanse: Use a calming cleanser. Gel or creamy depending on skin type.
  • Exfoliate: 1x every other week.
  • Toner: Freshener (no alcohol and calming)
  • Moisturize: Use a product (listed above) depending on your skin type. Try to find one that has calming ingredients like aloe vera, oatmeal, green tea, vitamin e, chamomile, primrose, etc…
  • Mask: 1-2x a week use calming masks. Try to avoid clay ones because they can be irritating. If you have sensitive oily use clay based ones 1x every other week.
  • Extra: Glycolic / Lactic acid can help help hydrate while exfoliating in a less abrasive way. (Use at night, not in the sun.) 

Serum: here you can choose what you want to focus on. 

  • An antioxidant / peptide serum is great for all skin types. Stopping free radical damage is great for anti-aging and peptides can help boost collagen/elastin to plump the skin aka great for anti-aging. (A good serum regardless of it’s types should have antioxidants at least!!!) 
  • Hyaluronic Acid is great for very dehydrated skin. It can add an extra boost of hydration.
  • AHA/BHA Acids like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or glycolic acid are great for people with acne prone skin. Gylcolic ones can be great for dry and mature skin because it adds hydration as well. (Use at night only)
  • Vitamin C serums help with brightening the skin and boost collagen production along with other benefits. (use at night only or with sunscreen in day)
  • Anti-Aging serums help firm and hydrate the skin. They might contain ingredients to promote high cell turnover, give a glow, and plump the skin (helps with wrinkles). 
  • Calming serums contain… calming ingredients! Calming ones will have antioxidant benefits (depending on the brand) but many help with redness or irritation. 
  • Oil based serums are not very common. In esthetics school we had a serum that was oil based. It was amazing for people with dry / mature skin. Applied before moisturizer it adds moisturization along with antioxidant benefits.
  • Lightening serums look for ingredients like kojic acid, hydroquinone, and licorice. (use only at night) If you are a deep skin tone ask a Dermatologist about use because of the bleaching ingredients. 
  • Retinol serums can be beneficial to those with mature skin. Retinol can help promote cell turnover, help with pore size (not genetic pore size but from sun damage / clogged) and reduce the appearance of wrinkles by boosting collagen production. Retinol is also an antioxidant which can help with free-radical damage. (Wear sunscreen if using in the day) *Note retinol can irritate skin, ask your Dermatologist for advice!

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